Consistently ranked among the world's top-three nations in both wealth and wine consumption, life in little Luxembourg seems good. But all the lax taxation and bank headquarters conceal an absolutely charming slice of northern Europe. The capital has a fairy-tale quality to its Unesco-listed historic core, memorably perched along a dramatic cliff top. Beyond, you’ll rapidly find yourself in rolling part-forested hills where a string of beguiling villages each form attractive huddles beneath stunning medieval castles. Then there’s all the fun of the fizz in Moselle wine country and some loveable walks to take in the pretty micro-gorges of Müllerthal. All in all, this little country has plenty of surprises. That’s some achievement given its wholesale destruction during WWII, a sad history remembered in war museums across the country.
Luxembourg is fairy-tale stuff…complete with the happy
ending. The story of this land’s tumultuous history beguiles with its
counts and dynasties, wars and victories, fortresses and promontories.
Only the dragon is missing. It's no surprise that Luxembourgers are a
proud people whose national motto, Mir wëlle bleiwe wat mir sin (‘We
want to remain what we are’), sums up their independent spirit. The
population of 469,000 is predominantly rural based – the only centres of
any size are the capital, Luxembourg City, followed by Esch-sur-Alzette. Though too small for its full name to fit on most
European maps, pint-sized Luxembourg (2586 sq km, or 82km long and 57km
wide) is wonderfully diverse. Lush highlands and valleys in the northern
Ardennes merge effortlessly with the Müllerthal’s ancient forested
landscape to the east, where the vibrant town of Echternach makes an enjoyable base. The impossibly picturesque and ridiculously romantic (not to mention tourist-flooded) Vianden is just a short trip north from Luxembourg City; in the southeast snakes the Moselle Valley
with its steep vineyards and riverside hamlets. In between all this are
rolling farmlands dotted with pristine, pastel-toned houses and
medieval hilltop castles.Luxembourg’s cuisine is French and German based. The national dish is judd mat gaardebounen – slabs of smoked pork served in a thick cream-based sauce with chunks of potato and broad beans. Other specialities include ferkelsrippchen (grilled spareribs), liewekniddelen mat sauerkraut (liver meatballs with sauerkraut) and kachkeis (a cooked cheese). Beers to sink include Bofferding, Diekirch,
Mousel and Simon Pils, after which comes a host of local fruity white
and sparkling wines. From 2008 you can enjoy all this in an untainted
environment, thanks to recent legislation banning smoking in restaurants
and, during dining hours, in cafés.
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